Are we in 2025, 1925 - or even almost 100 years before that?
Even with nearly two centuries of trading under its belt, it doesn't mean that this prestigious venue is old-fashioned or fusty.
For all the hushed tones and deferential service, the Royal Hotel's kitchen demonstrates modern agility with its charming and imaginative menu.
We started with the Royal's signature galleybagger souffle; a fluffy cloud of moist and delicate yet flavoursome cheese.
Chicken liver parfait was a rich textural mix of pear chutney, savoury granola, pickled blackberry and with perfectly toasted brioche bread.
Today's fish was cod fillet served with buttered new potatoes and peas many ways.
The melange of legumes included fine green beans, sugar snaps, plus pea and herb salsa, topped off with a tangle of pea shoots.
We couldn't fault this simple and fresh-tasting dish.
Chicken supreme was a delightful earthy-looking medley of rich wild mushrooms, leek, black garlic gnocchi, with scribbles of yoghurt and chicken jus.
Collectively, this created a fabulous dish, with the standout element being the gnocchi.
These squishy nuggets had an intensity of colour as well as flavour, almost liquoricey, and were nice and chewy.
Layered thin and crispy pastry slices in the blackberry mille feuille, were supported by globs of moussey creme diplomat and spiced with a hint of cinnamon.
With a shock of blackberry just adding a hit of intensity, this was a superb pudding.
The dark chocolate delice served to us by the Royal Hotel was a sensual experience, with velvety rich chocolate, punctuated with vivid mango puree, coffee mousse and yet more mango in the form of ice cream nested on chocolate soil.
Topping off this texture free-for-all was crisp yet soft honeycomb, which yielded its burnt toffee flavour.
For the third time in a row, we find ourselves compelled to give five stars for a meal.
This is probably no surprise at the Royal.
We'd expect no less with its consistently award-winning food, plus the service was great and everyone was lovely.
But the Royal is more than the way it serves you a superlative dinner.
It feels like a generous place.
They are generous with quality and quantity, and this makes us generous with our stars.
If your preferred dates show as unavailable online, please call our Reservations Team on 01983 852186, who will be happy to assist with your enquiry.
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